Caught up in controversy, veal makes meaty return to menus

Derek Burns, consulting chef of Hornblower Dining Yachts in San Francisco, diametrically disagrees with Hess: “Western-style or free-range veal has more flavor and juiciness than traditional milk-fed, so you can do more with it. It stands on its own, and you don’t have to rely on the sauce … Guenter Seeger, who plans to open his new Seeger’s this summer in Atlanta, says he will change his menu on a daily basis depending on market availability from farmers and vendors. …

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