Rico's rants

There was caviar and vodka at Stella!, Scott Boswell’s elegant, deeply European restaurant in the French Quarter, where duck five ways follows the foie gras, and leads to trios of crème brûlée. And at midnight, there were red beans and rice …. If you’ve had a banh mi in New Orleans, chances are the bread came from Dong Phuong, on an undistinguished stretch of Chef Menteur Highway east of the city, near the Church of Mary, Queen of Vietnam. The bakery is on the right, …

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