Michael Foley
as taped at Printer's Row
Chicago, IL
While drawing inspiration from American regional foods usually leads chefs to the bayous of Louisiana or the mesas of the Southwest, Michael Foley, owner-founder of Printer’s Row, created a sophisticated cuisine based on the staples of American home cooking. He then made it part of the framework of Chicago by drawing ingredients from the baker’s dozen of ethnic groups which comprise the city.
Michael’s style and contributions were recognized early by Cook’s Magazine, which chose them as one of fifty for their first “Who’s Who of Cooking in America.” The 32-year-old chef was listed with the likes of the late James Beard and Julia Child. He went on to open First Street and Grand Ohio. In 2004 he closed his famed Printer’s Row, writing his book, Printer’s Row: The Evolution of an American Cook. He now consults, and travels to promote American regional and creative cooking.
He has been around kitchens all his life. Michael is a third-generation restaurateurs; his restaurant and style are a departure from Ray Foley’s, the restaurant opened by his grandfather in 1935, where he received a series of unofficial apprenticeships during his teenage years. Michael investigated careers including medicine while an undergraduate at Georgetown University. And continued to work in restaurants. “Washington was a cosmopolitan city to me, and I’d eat everywhere and picked up a lot of flavors that way.”
In 1975 he moved to Ithaca, New York, to study for a masters in hotel management at Cornel. It was while working at L’Auberge du Cochon Rouge, a restaurant in a small farmhouse owned by a French chef, that he made his commitment to the kitchen. Returning to Chicago in 1977, Michael started working for small, individual restaurants, learning about the suppliers in the city. During these years, he traveled frequently to France and visited with Paul Bocuse, Alain Chapel and other famous French chefs.
“The French reinforced the importance I place on technique, and the place for the individual restaurant. But in Chicago, most restaurants were concepts owned by large commercial firms. I had to investigate all parts of the city to find a space I could afford.” Printer’s Row was opened in a fading brick building and an area of the city Michael termed “blighted” when the restaurant opened in 1981. Michael changed at least 80 percent of his menu each week.
His emphasis is on techniques and their importance. Michael starts by visualizing the entire plate, taking into account texture, flavor, aroma and color. “I like to combine a little bit of opposites on a plate and I don’t want anything to overpower anything else. I am committed to keeping food healthy.”
