Serves 4

Confit is an old-fashioned alternative to roasting goose or duck legs. Here the frugal chef makes good use of the legs and thighs of the game hen to prepare a delicious confit that adds flavor and texture to the filling. Although the procedure is simple, there is a long baking time, so begin early

Goat Cheese Filling
1 teaspoon olive oil
1 tablespoon peeled and minced shallots
1 garlic clove, peeled and minced
3 ounces spinach, washed, cleaned, and dried
4 ounces goat cheese
4 ounces Game Hen Confit

Game Hen Confit
Legs and thighs from the game hens
1 garlic clove, peeled
2 sprigs fresh thyme
Cracked pepper to taste
3 cups (or enough to cover hen parts by 1‚ÅÑ2 inch) duck fat and/or olive oil

Stewed Vidalia Onions
3 tablespoons olive oil
6 cups thinly sliced Vidalia onions
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
3 tablespoons sugar
1‚ÅÑ2 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme
Cracked black pepper to taste

Apple Cider Vinaigrette
1‚ÅÑ2 cup apple cider
2 tablespoons (about 1 small lemon) freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 tablespoon peeled and finely diced Granny Smith apple
1 tablespoon peeled and finely diced Red Delicious apple
1 tablespoon peeled and minced red onion
6 tablespoons olive oil
Salt and pepper to taste

Apple Ginger Pecan Butter
4 cups peeled and diced Granny Smith apples
1‚ÅÑ2 cup apple cider
1‚ÅÑ2 cup brown sugar
1 teaspoon minced fresh ginger
1‚ÅÑ2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1‚ÅÑ4 teaspoon grated nutmeg
1‚ÅÑ4 cup chopped pecans

Cherry Tomato Garnish
1 tablespoon olive oil
1‚ÅÑ2 cup (about 2-ounce weight) stemmed and halved cherry tomatoes
3 tablespoons peeled and chopped red onion
1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme
2 fresh basil leaves, thinly sliced
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

4 whole game hens, breasts, legs, and thighs removed, breasts boned except for wing bone
1‚ÅÑ2 cup chicken stock (see Basics)
1‚ÅÑ4 cup olive oil
1‚ÅÑ4 cup Apple Cider Vinaigrette
1‚ÅÑ2 cup Cherry Tomato Garnish

To make the goat cheese filling: In a large saute pan heat the olive oil over medium-high heat and saute the shallots and garlic about 1 minute, just until softened, being careful not to burn the garlic. Add the spinach and cook about 1 minute, just until the spinach begins to wilt. Immediately remove the pan from the heat and transfer to a medium mixing bowl. When the spinach has cooled, fold in the goat cheese and game hen confit.

To make the game hen confit: Preheat the oven to 200 F. Season the legs and thighs with the garlic, thyme, and cracked pepper and place in a roasting pan with enough fat and or fresh oil to cover by 1‚ÅÑ2 inch. Cover the pan and continue cooking until the meat is tender when pressed. The skin should be crisp and evenly colored, but the fat should not turn more than a deep yellow. Remove the hen pieces from the fat and drain on paper towels. When cool enough to handle, remove the skin and shred the meat. If desired, strain the cooking oil and reserve for another use.

To stew the Vidalia onions: In a large saute pan heat the olive oil over medium-high heat. Add the onions and stir 1 minute. Cover and cook about 15 minutes or until the onions are tender, stirring occasionally. Uncover and add the red wine vinegar, sugar, and salt. Increase the heat to high and boil about 5 minutes or until the liquids have evaporated and the onions are deep golden and caramelized. Season with chopped thyme and pepper. Remove the pan from the heat and keep at room temperature.

To make the apple cider vinaigrette: In a small mixing bowl combine the apple cider, lemon juice, apples, and onion. Add the oil in a thin stream, whisking constantly. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

To make the apple ginger pecan butter: In a medium saucepan combine the apples, cider, brown sugar, ginger, cinnamon, and nutmeg. Cook over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until most of the liquid has evaporated. Transfer the mixture to the work bowl of a food processor fitted with a metal blade and pulse two or three times. The mixture should be slightly lumpy rather than smooth and puréed. Fold in the chopped pecans.

To make the cherry tomato garnish: In a small saute pan heat the olive oil over medium-high heat. Add the tomatoes and onion and cook until the onion is tender, about 5 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and add the fresh herbs.

To cook the hens: Preheat the oven to 400 F. Stuff the boned breasts by loosening them from their skin, but keeping attached to the wing as follows. Lay the game hen breasts skin side down on the work surface. Being careful to leave the skin whole, pull the breast meat from the skin and spoon a tablespoon of the stuffing on the skin. Bend the meat back down onto the stuffing, and fold the skin around to partially enclose it. Lightly season with salt and pepper. Place the breasts skin side up in a roasting pan. Add the chicken stock and brush with the olive oil. Roast in the oven about 10 minutes or until the juices just begin to run clear. Remove from the oven and reserve the cooking juices.

To serve: Place 2 tablespoons of the stewed onions on each of the four serving plates. Add 2 tablespoons of the apple butter on one side of the onions, and place a hen breast on top. Drizzle 1 tablespoon each of the roasting juices and apple cider vinaigrette over the game hens. Finish with 1 tablespoon of the seasoned cherry tomatoes.

Here´s a highly unusual variation on the pour-soup-over-toasted-bread theme: a warm dessert soup using apples, with cinnamon-toasted brioche taking the place of the bread.

Serves 4

Apple Soup
4 large Red Delicious apples

1/4 cup lemon juice
1 Granny Smith apple
1 Red Delicious apple
1 Golden Delicious apple
3 teaspoons ground cinnamon
1-1/2 cup sugar
Eight 4-inch brioche circles
1 cup clarified butter

To make the soup: Preheat the oven to 350 F. Peel and core two Red Delicious apples and cut into very small dice. Spread the apple dice in a medium ovenproof saute pan or skillet and brown in the oven, 8 to 10 minutes. Take out of the oven and put over medium-low heat. Juice two Red Delicious apples. Immediately stir the juice into the browned apple mirepoix and let it come to a simmer. Strain through a chinois or fine-meshed sieve lined with cheesecloth. Keep warm.

Place the lemon juice in a shallow bowl. Cut the remaining apples in half and core. Cut into matchstick julienne; do not peel. As each group of julienne is cut, rinse in the lemon juice, then drain on paper towels.

Heat the broiler to high. Mix the cinnamon and sugar together in a shallow bowl. Put the clarified butter in another shallow bowl. Dip the brioche circles in the butter, coating both sides, then into the cinnamon-sugar mixture to coat. Place under a broiler until the sugar is melted; turn and melt the sugar on the other side. Remove.

Use large shallow serving bowls. Place a caramelized brioche circle in each serving bowl. Ladle warm apple soup around the base of the dessert. Sprinkle the fresh apple julienne into the soup.

Tender veal medallions are browned, then poached with vegetables and herbs. They are served with asparagus stalks and mixed fresh vegetables. Note that the asparagus stock shows up in the veal poaching liquid, and the trimmed ends of the asparagus stalks reappear in the vegetables. Chef Matt says this dish also works well with chicken breasts.

Serves 4

Lime Sauce
1/4 cup chilled sour cream
Juice and zest from 1/2 lime
Salt and freshly ground pepper

Asparagus
8 spears white asparagus, peeled and trimmed
1 quart water
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
Salt and freshly ground white pepper to taste
Pinch of sugar
Juice of 1/4 lemon
1 slice white bread (optional)
8 spears green asparagus, peeled and trimmed

Veal
Four 5- to 6-ounce veal fillet medallions
4 leek leaves, blanched
Salt and freshly ground pepper
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 small shallots, sliced
1/2 garlic clove, crushed
1/2 cup mushrooms, cleaned and sliced
1 sprig mint
1 sprig tarragon leaves,
1 cup asparagus stock (water from cooking asparagus)

Vinaigrette
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 shallot, minced
1/4 cup pine nuts
1 Granny Smith apple
1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar
Juice from 1/4 lemon
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
1 heaping tablespoon chopped chives
1 heaping tablespoon tarragon
2 mint leaves, minced
1 sprig sweet basil

Vegetables
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 cup asparagus stalk pieces (trimmed off above), blanched
1 cup snow peas, strings removed, blanched
1 large tomato, peeled, seeded, and diced
1/4 cup asparagus stock (water from cooking asparagus)
Salt and freshly ground pepper

Garnish
8 chive stems
4 sprigs each tarragon and sweet basil

To prepare the lime sauce: Whisk the sour cream and lime juice together; adjust seasoning with salt and pepper. Add the zest. Whip with a stick blender. Cover with plastic wrap and chill in the refrigerator.

To prepare the asparagus: Peel the white asparagus. Tie with kitchen string into 2 or 3 bundles to protect it while it cooks. Put the asparagus bundles in a deep asparagus cooker or deep saucepan. Add the water so that the asparagus is standing in at least 1 inch of water; this helps the thick ends cook through while the more tender tips are steaming. Tear the bread into large pieces and add to the water to remove any bitterness as the asparagus cooks. Add the butter and seasonings and bring to a boil. Cover, lower the heat to medium, and cook 2 to 3 minutes, depending on thickness; the asparagus should be just al dente. Remove from heat and let stand in the hot broth. Tie the green asparagus into a bundle. Bring lightly salted water to a boil and add the green asparagus and some of the bread. Cover, lower the heat to medium, and cook 1 to 2 minutes, depending on thickness, until al dente. Remove from heat and let stand in the hot water. Drain both kinds of asparagus, leaving just a little juice for each, and reserve all the asparagus cooking broth. Keep the asparagus warm.

To prepare the veal: Shape the veal medallions into rounds and tie each with a leek leaf strip to preserve the shape. Season with salt and pepper. Melt the butter and olive oil together in a large saute pan or skillet over medium-high heat and sear the veal medallions 2 to 3 minutes on both sides, until well browned. Add the shallots, garlic, mushrooms, mint, and tarragon; season again with salt and pepper and add three-fourths of the reserved asparagus stock. Cover, reduce heat to medium, and poach for 2 to 3 minutes. Remove from heat and add the sweet basil. Set the pan aside for about 8 minutes, leaving the medallions in the liquid. Take the medallions out of the poaching liquid and drain; set aside on a plate and keep warm. Strain the stock.

To prepare the vinaigrette: Heat the olive oil over medium-high heat and add the shallots and pine nuts. Cook until they begin to toast. Peel, core, and dice the apple and add to the pan. Add the strained veal cooking stock (above), vinegar, and lemon juice, and season to taste. Cook 2 to 3 minutes, until the flavors blend. Remove from heat and stir in the herbs.

To prepare the vegetables: Melt the butter in a medium saute pan and saute the asparagus pieces and snow peas until heated through. Add the tomatoes and remaining asparagus stock and cook 3 to 4 minutes, or until the liquid has nearly evaporated. Season to taste.

Rewarm the asparagus spears in their juices.

To serve: Cut the veal medallions in half diagonally and place two halves, slightly offset, on each warmed plate. Arrange two pieces each of green and white asparagus on each plate. Decoratively arrange the vegetables on one side of each sliced veal medallion. Pour vinaigrette on the other side. Drizzle each plate with lime sauce. Cross two chives over each plate; garnish with sprigs of tarragon and basil.